The AVS 3010 is the entry level alarm from AVS. It is a none “Star rated” system yet despite this I believe it to be the best alarm in their range.
Seriously let me explain why!
I’ll start off with the siren. It does not have an over-ride key so can be hidden. I’ve said before that I’d have a basic none battery back-up siren over a battery back-up siren with an over-ride key any time as I won’t buy into the marketing spin about these systems offering more protection.
Better Siren. No Sales Spin!

Another broken AVS alarm remote!
The amusing thing here is that the AVS 3010+ comes with a battery back-up siren (with over-ride key) and costs more money!
I’m sure that most car thieves would simply snap the flimsy siren bracket then drop the siren into a bucket of water!
This begs the question why would anyone pay more money for an AVS 3010+?
Better Remote Controls
The remote controls have the same case as all the other AVS alarms so still break where the key ring attaches, but the 3010 has a separate lock and unlock button which makes it far more user-friendly.
Remote Security
The remote controls on the 3010 require the pin number for coding. OK, there are limited code options (5-15) but this is still less vulnerable to remote cloning than the AVS A4 or S Series.
Dual Immobiliser
The 3010 has two immobiliser cuts which are active when the alarm is armed. Whilst there is no attack proof security housing for the immobiliser it still offers a similar level of protection as the AVS A4 an S Series, neither of which can really claim to have an attack-proof housing!
The thing I like most about the 3010 is that you know what you are getting and it is not hiding behind a Star rating system that misleads you into thinking it is effective.
Also available as an AVS 3010+ which has a battery back-up siren and vibration sensor!
Obsessive Rating: The best AVS have to offer?
The term “Less is more” seems very apt for this one. But still not as good as a Viper 3010!
OVERVIEW
Features:
- Dual Immobiliser
- Two 4 Button Waterproof Remotes
- Remote Boot Pop
- Blue LED
- Built-in Central Locking Relays
Additional Information:
AVS 3010 (current 4 button remote version) User Manual
HI Julian,
Can I have a price for this alarm installed into a Mitsi L300 SWB 2003
There is no central locking in the front but there is in the back.
Is it possible to have a price for both with and without the front doors.
Kind regards,
Andrew Morris
PS I am In Paraparaumu
Hi Andrew,
I have sent you a PM.
Cheers,
Julian
The 3010+ model I am referring to.
I only install alarms that I supply. This protects you in the event of a warranty claim as you only have one person to deal with.
It’s also worth noting that the siren on the AVS 3010+ can’t be hidden so it’s pointless being battery back-up. Have a read up about siren muppetry. Although the AVS 3010 is not a “5 star” the same logic applies.
Cheers,
Julian
This alarm is basic and simple but rocks. Thanks for the install today Julian.
Hi Carlos,
Thanks for the feedback, it’s great to know that you’re happy with it.
Hi Julian
I’ve been finding your blog brilliant and invaluable for a complete alarm novice.
I also feel guilty because I’d love your advice, but I’m in Christchurch and can’t make the trip up.
As a result of your recommendations I’ve decided to get an AVS 3010 installed.
My question is, if cost was the same, would you still recommend the 3010 over the 3010+? I can get either installed at Alarming Audio (very good trade me feed back, little else to go on) for the same price.
I realise the ‘+’ has the siren you don’t like, but it also has the shock sensors. What are your views on those? Seems like a good idea, although I’m also thinking it might piss the neighbours off, being ‘Shakey town’ and all!
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Rohan
Hi Rohan,
All good, I’m happy to give advice so long as it’s appreciated.
I’d go for the AVS 3010 over the 3010+ any day regardless of price.
Over sensitive shock sensors are the biggest cause of false alarms going and are a huge part of the reason why most people don’t pay car alarms much attention. There’s nothing worse then crying wolf and pissing others off.
If you do decide to go with a shock sensor then make sure the installer fits it in the centre of the dash, rather then to one side, and avoid having tide to the steering column. I’m sure you can work out why but there are plenty of installers who do not!
Better still, get a tilt sensor if you want to protect your wheels.
Hi Julian, great blog – cheers.
Just bought a very tidy Daihatsu Charade to teach teen one to drive. Only worth bout 4k but am worried as it would be the easiest thing on the street to nick! Has key central locking only. Like the idea of the AVS 3010 if it is a good pick for this tiny car. Can you advise and quote for me? Cheers mate. CDJ
Hi Chris,
End of the day an insurance standard immobiliser (such as the Autowatch 573PPi) is a more effective way to stop a car from being hot-wired.
Whilst the 3010 does have dual immobiliser the immobiliser is only active when the alarm is armed, so it does rely on the user arming it. Insurance standard immobilisers automatically arm (usually after 30-40 seconds after turning the engine off) so don’t have that human weakness!
The other thing is that there is no security case to protect the immobiliser on the 3010 (not that AVS can really claim that any of their products have one 🙄 )
I’ll P.M you with some pricing options.
Cheers,
Julian
Hi,
Just brought a toyota porte it has central locking but no Imobiliser or alarm. The car is parked outside on the driveway at night and am looking to provide enough security
to ensure that its there in the morning and if anyone tries to break in I am aleterted.
With this alarm can the central locking be synchronised with
the factory central locking so I dont need two remotes 1 to open the doors 2 to disarm the alarm?
Could you also please indicate the cost of alarm and installation.
Thanks
Jim
W
Hi Jim,
I’ve sent you an email as I need to know where you are located etc before being able to give you a quote, plus it’s not a good idea to reveal all your details on a public site.
In response to the main question:
All remote alarms (including the AVS 3010) can be installed to lock/unlock your car with the alarms remote. In other words the alarm remote will arm/disarm the alarm whilst locking/unlocking the vehicle.
The Toyota remote key is not able to arm/disarm this alarm. For this to happen you would need an OEM upgrade alarm.
Hi can you tell me where I can buy new remotes as my ones have broken at the tops where they attach to the key ring
Hi Jill. You didn’t mention where you are located. If you’re in Wellington then I keep new remote controls and cases in stock. If not then you can contact AVS who should be able to point you to your nearest dealer (details on the Links page of the website).
You’re not the first to have broken a AVS remote where it attaches to the keyring. Trying a smaller keyring next time may help but I’ll be the first to point out that it’s not a well designed remote!
Hi mate, great website. I have a question about the AVS 3010. Can the ‘chirp’when arming and disarming be silenced?
Hi Dan,
Yes the 3010 can be programmed for silent arm/disarm.
hi Julian,
How do I program to stop the chirp for disarm/arm on the avs3010+ ?
Can I do it with the remote?
Thanks,
Shane.
Hi Shane,
That’s not a remote selectable feature, but it can be programmed off by an installer.
Either bring the car to me and I can do this for you or touch base with AVS who can put you in contact with your nearest installer.
hey can i get a price on this installed
on a nissan pulsar srv vzr autech 5 door hatchback manual
Hi Philip,
Please fill in the contact form for a quote rather then publishing your details.
Thanks Julian
Hi,
Could you please send me a quote for AVS 3010 or decent car alarm with remote key, reverse camera (screen already installed), and parking sensors.
Car: Suzuki Swift 2007 Auto import.
Thank you
Hi Abi,
Please use the Contact form and I’ll be able to send you the most suitable options for your swift. The Swift came with factory remote locking which means an OEM upgrade alarm would be able to work from the original remote key if you still have it.
I only deal with car security systems so can’t help with cameras or parking sensors.
Cheers,
Julian
Hi jim
Any chance you have a wire diragram? Im trying to fit tge boot unlock solinoid but noone has told me where to plug/slice it in
I have the 3010+
Cheers
Hi Jesse,
I don’t publish wiring diagrams or offer technical support on systems that I have not supplied. Contact AVS for assistance.
Cheers Julian
P.S. Jim?
Have a busted immobilizer remote for rfrb b4. Need help, cant turn off immobilizer to get car repairs
http://vehiclesecurity.co.nz/blog/car-alarm-immobiliser-removal/