ALARM: An electronic device wired to a Vehicle which monitors its state via various inputs. Most will have door, boot and bonnet protection (See Pin Switch), others may have additional sensors. (See Glass, Microwave, PIR, Shock, Tilt and Ultrasonic) Should a sensor or switch trigger the alarm it will give audible/visual warning get attention. Most alarms also offer Remote Central Locking as added protection and convenience.
ALARM MODULE: Otherwise referred to as the brain or ECU, the alarm module is the main command unit of the system which responds to the Remote and will activate the Siren and hazard lights if it detects activity from any of the input sensors when armed.
ARM DELAY: Nearly all Alarm systems will have a delay time varying from 20 to 60 seconds before all input zones become active, this is to allow time for the vehicle to settle and avoid false triggering when armed, for example once a door has been shut it may take several seconds for air movement to settle which would otherwise cause the Ultrasonic Sensors to cause a false alarm.
AUTO RE-ARM: Upon the system being disarmed the Alarm will look to see if a door or boot has been opened, if neither are opened within a set time frame then the Alarm will Automatically re-arm as well as re-lock the vehicle. If however a door or boot has been opened this feature will not operate to prevent the risk of locking the keys in the vehicle.
BATTERY BACK-UP SIREN: Siren with its own self contained power supply, designed to wail if the vehicles battery is disconnected. Generally come with an Over-Ride Key so vehicle can be serviced. Down side of device is that with it needing to be accessible for the over-ride key it defeats its own objectives as it remains vulnerable to attack. Phased out in Europe in the mid Nineties for Digital Battery Back-up Sirens!
BOOT POP: Many alarms offer a boot pop function; this normally works by pressing a button on the remote for 1 to 3 seconds. Note: Will only work with vehicles pre-fitted with electronic boot release.
BOOT RELEASE KIT: An add-on device that allows for your boot to be popped open electronically (See Boot Pop). Can be added to many cars which have Japanese style pull to open lever typically found between the drivers door and seat
CAN-BUS: (Controller Area Network) is a data communication system found in modern vehicles. It allows separate electronic control units in the vehicle to communicate with each other via data wires. Typically used to control engine, windows, mirrors, central locking etc via a pair of data wires which reduce the amount of cables required to operate the electrical system
CHIRP: The sound a Siren will make upon the Alarm Arming or Disarming, some Alarms will even chirp to indicate that a door is not fully closed upon arming. Pre-warning chirps are also used if a Microwave sensor has detected movement so as to deter a potential intruder. (Arm/Disarm chirps normally have the option be turned off for discretion)
DIGITAL BATTERY BACK-UP SIREN: Modern version of the Battery Back-up Siren, having no over-ride key its advantage is that it can be hidden or made hard to access by a would be thief. Offers greater level of security and is user friendly as there are no over-ride procedures to be concerned with. Without doubt the best form of Siren for protecting a vehicle.
DOOR MOTORS: Required on some vehicles to allow full Remote Central Locking. Many cars have what we refer to as Slave Locking. This is where you have to physically lock/unlock the drivers doors and the other doors follow suit. A drivers door motor will then be needed for full central locking (common with Honda and Nissan).
DOOR OPEN AUDIABLE WARNING: Most alarms have a programmable feature that will warn you if a door, boot or bonnet is not fully closed upon arming. This is usually done by the Siren letting out a series of Chips rather than the usual one or two Chirps. If you hear this then disarm the alarm, then check to make sure everything is shut before arming again.