AVS Product Range
As of the April 2009 AVS have updated their S Series of Alarms/Immobilisers. The new product additions include built in Courier function and built in OEM/MAP so that it can function from a factory remote, the previous model required the extra OEM Module.
In other words the S Series is now capable of working with either the supplied AVS remotes or the cars factory remote without having to order or pay for additional parts.
AVS seem to do regular update updates to the S Series, it was only 12 months ago that the old torch remote was replaced by the Waterproof remote which surprisingly enough is actually “Waterproof”!
The Waterproof remote has 4 buttons which are all clearly labeled, the main one being the Lock/Unlock button to go along with boot release, Panic and the rare garage door open button.
AVS S5
AVS S5
AVS S3 (NZSA 3 Star) Immobiliser
AVS S4 (NZSA 4 Star) Alarm/Immobiliser with shock sensor
AVS S5 (NZSA 5 Star) Alarm/Immobiliser with Glass break & Shock sensor
None Muppet Proof!
Call me a cynic but I am firm believer of the saying “If it can go wrong, it will go wrong”. Even AVS seem to acknowledge that the S Series has an Achilles heel. Here’s the Link to the AVS Trouble Shooting guide if you are having issues.
What are the issues?
Simply put, the S Series can be put into program mode by mistake **NOTE: This has now been fixed (As I pointed out in the comments section last year) so only applies to old models. Thanks to Brad at AVS for bring this to my attention** if the user goes to disarm the immobiliser with the ignition on and presses the boot pop button instead of the disarm button, the result maybe that the arm/disarm chirps are activated/deactivated, or the remotes start doing strange things such as arming from the wrong button!
My advise is be sure that the immobiliser is off before turning the ignition on otherwise it is only a matter of time before you experience this first hand.
Data Siren
The AVS Data Battery Back-up siren found on the S4, S5 & A4 is more advanced that the Battery Back-up sirens found with most other NZSA alarms. AVS correctly point out that “it can not be fooled into turning of like normal battery back-up sirens.” This may well be true but the AVS Data siren should not be confused with the Digital Battery Back-up sirens found with Autowatch and Cobra which can be hidden. The Data Siren still comes with an over-ride key so needs to be accessible. If the siren is accessible then it is still vulnerable to an attack and can easily be muted, smashed, ripped-out or drowned. Like most birds, sirens don’t sing very well under water!
Immobiliser
The S Series does not have a security housing to protect the immobiliser circuit which in my opinion is it’s weakest spot: Read the AVS Immobiliser post for details.
AVS Waterproof Remote
AVS S Series RRP:
AVS S3 $449.00
AVS S4 $549.00
AVS S5 $649.00
Obsessive Rating: Big on features but the best?
The S Series stands up well against the obvious competition of the Mongoose M80 and the Dynatron range, but still falls short of being respected globally. If you want an Alarm/Immobiliser that will work, meets the NZSA insurance requirements and has plenty of features then fine. If on the hand you want uncompromising vehicle protection then I’d suggest looking at what Cobra and Autowatch have to offer.
OVERVIEW
Features:
Triple Immobiliser
Two 4 Button Waterproof Remotes
Blue LED
Built in Central Locking Relays
Shock Sensor (Not active with S3)
Data Back-up Siren (Not S3)
Options:
Built in Turbo Timer
Built in Courier Function
Built in OEM (to work from factory remote)
Related Posts:
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hi, the diode you mentioned in this article what are the specs please? or part # ?
i have another question, my alarm has 4 connectors for microwave sensor, the sensor i have has 3 connectors. the connectors on the alarm brain put out 3.27, 3.27, 6.7 volts. on the last connector there is no voltage. how do i adapt this sensor to this brain?
Hi Bishop,
I’m assuming that you’re referring to diode splitting the door sense input wire to pick up each individual door so you can have door open warning on?
If this is the case then you will need a 1 amp diode for each door, you will need the band side of the diode pointing towards the door switch. Part # 1N4004 should be fine. You can get them at places like Jaycar electronics.
In regards to your Microwave sensor I’m assuming that your one is a Single zone sensor. Your 3 wires will be 12V (power), Ground, and trigger output. Some Microwave sensors are dual Zone which means that the 1st zone can act as an early warning (warn away). hence the 4th wire which is the input for this.
You should check with your wiring diagram for the AVS to confirm which wires you need.
AVS have now updated the program table to prevent the “None Muppet Proof” accidental program changes. Welcome updates
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Hi Julian,
I stumbled across here and after all morning reading all your posts and articles, I must say Ive learnt alot.
I have the AVS S5 alarm and sure enough, the door ajar funtion has been turned off due to the alarm beeping when the dome light fades. My alarm is 4 years old, but my receipt says lifetime warranty on install so I’ll be caling them this afternoon.
A question regarding the turbo timer function. How does this work? I have it hooked up and working now but im thinking of getting rid of it. is there alot of wires to change over? there’ll be 2 for immobiliser and it’ll only be another 2 wires to control the running part wouldnt it?
I believe the programming side is just left button 16 times followed by setting the time to 0 (off).
Again, great website, a shame youre so far away from me (im Auckland).
Cheers
Robert
Hi Robert,
Great to hear that you have found the blog a good read.
What car is your S5 installed into? With most cars it is possible to wire for door open warning chirps, however there are some vehicle where this is not possible.
I won’t post alarm program options here as the installation manuals are not meant to be public knowledge, playing with program options and getting the wrong code number can potentially damage the alarm or the vehicles electronics so I’d suggest giving AVS a call: 0800 438 862
AVS are based in Auckland and I always find Kevin and Brad to be very helpful. If you do want to have the system looked at then the are certainly the ones to talk to.
Cheers,
Julian
Thanks Julian,
The alarm was installed into a 2001 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 7.
The door ajar funtion is the big thing i want back. I had a flat battery the other day as a passenger left the door 1/2 open. we parked the car, got into the lift and we live on the 10th floor of the apartment.
The most annoying part i think also is that the inside dome ligh stays on for about 30 seconds after the door has been closed.
I can appreciate the programming is a sensitive one and will give Brad a call tomorrow.
Thanks
Robert
Hi Robert,
Oh easy one. There is a blue wire that runs down the passenger side of the car that gives instant trigger for all 4 doors. You don’t even need a diode so no excuses for the original installer! I assume that the door wire has been wired to the white Dome fade wire instead.
Get this changed and problem should be solved.
Let me know how you get on.
Hi Julian,
I received a reply to my email to my original alarm installed (a well know company in Auckland area and who have fitted the same alarm few other cars exactly like mine).
The quoted $100 to change wiring and change programming to disable the turbo timer. Is this reasonable in your opinion?
The part I was disapointed in was their reply in regards to the door switch. Their email reply in regards to this part:
“Regards the door switch. That is nothing to do with the alarm as all door switches operate when the door is partially closed regardless of vehicle. If you check the interior light you’ll see that it operates when the door is not fully closed. Unless we supply and fit new door pin switches there is nothing that can be done as the factory door switches are a preset length.”
Sure door switches work and it would seem that they do use the signal from the dome light rather than the door.
Im going to check the wiring today but was thinking, even if i do correct the wiring, it seems my installer has disabled the door ajar warning funtion of my alarm anyway so really would I be correct in saying that I cant fix this?
Thanks
Robert
Hi Robert,
In regards to their comments about the door switches; WTF? I struggle to understand how some of these Muppets even manage to tie their shoe laces in the morning, let alone install an alarm!
I’m quite happy to PM you with the program details on how to select the door ajar warning, so once you’ve found the correct wire let me know.
Regardless of the price quoted to change the timer wiring, my personal suggestion is to avoid any installer stupid enough to suggest fitting new door switches when there is nothing wrong with the factory Mitsubishi ones!!!
I’m off to headbutt a wall now! Good luck…
Hi Julian,
Just wanted to say a big thank you for all your help.
Over this weekend, I followed your tips and changed the door trigger to the door switch rather than dome light and while i was there I wired the boot and tilt sensor trigger to this wire as well seperated by usind diodes.
I also re-wired the ignition, and took the chance to really do it well as the cut wires were originally right next to each other and a theif could easily just swap the wires over!
Just finished re-programming and its just the way i want it now.
Well…except i just picked up a wind up window module from Trademe mega cheap so thats my next mission.
Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate the time you took out of your day to help a stranger fix his problems.
Best regards
Robert
Hi Robert,
No worries. I’m pleased that you’ve got a result on this one, I find it frustrating how many alarms like your one I come across.
I’d let the original installer know that you’ve got it fixed up and ask why they did not wire it to the doors originally!
Muppets!
Hey there..
I just got the avs s5 installed today.. I thought since this alarm is more expensive then my older one, the arm/disarm chirp would be louder although it did sound loud when I tried it in the store but I guess it was because I was inside but anyways the reason I changed my alarm is because of the chirping.. Now that I’ve heard the chirping of my new alarm (avs s5) it’s not as loud as my other alarm.. Is there a way to make it louder?? I can arm/disarm it from far distance but I mean what’s the point of arming and disarming from a far distance if you can’t hear it?? Like what if I accidentally disarmed it and I was inside.. I wouldn’t even know I disarmed my car.. And the siren isn’t as loud aswell.. Did a make the right choice choosing this alarm?? Can you tell me straight up that I have nothing to worry about and that this alarm is awesome?? Lmao
Hi ChaCha,
The only way to make the siren on the AVS louder would be to re-locate it, If it is high up in the engine bay then chances are that the sound will echo around the engine bay before making it out of the car. This could explain the lack of volume!
Personally I’m not a big fan of the AVS siren as it comes with an over-ride key so needs to be accessible. I know AVS claim that the “Data Siren” is harder to defeat than a normal battery back-up siren, but the reality is that car thieves are not stupid, if they can get to the siren then they will simply rip the siren out of the engine bay making the whole “data” thing a load of pointless spin!
To the best of my knowledge Cobra make the only alarm with adjustable arm/disarm chirp volume.
In regards to disarming your alarm when you are inside. Hopefully the alarm has been programmed to auto re-arm, this means that if you do disarm it and a door has not been open in 2 minutes then the alarm should re-arm and lock the doors. This however does depend on how your installer has wired the alarm up.
Hope this helps!
Hi,
Just putting a turbo in my car which has a AVS S5 in it.
Am I able to program it myself?
Cheers,
Matt
Hi Matt,
If you want your S5 to work as a Turbo timer then it will need to be re-programmed and re-wired so I’d suggest you contact your nearest AVS dealer.
Cheers,
Julian
Does anybody have a copy of AVS S5 wiring diagram ? Can’t install it myself as I got one without the wiring diagram.
Wiring diagrams are available from the dealer login section of the AVS website.
I would suggest that you contact the person who sold it to you!
Better still get it installed by someone who knows what they are doing…
Hi Julian,
Thanks for the reply. Got it cheap off a store that closed down recently so there’s no one to go back to. I’m an electrician and have installed multiple mongoose alarms on my family cars. Any other ideas ?
Have you tried contacting AVS directly?
AVS wanted me to send it directly to them to get it installed. Another suggestion is to get an authorised installer to fix it up
Hi,
I have an Altezza and Im considering getting an AVS S5, would you recommend this alarm for my car or would another alarm be better? Im a noob with cars and dont know much about alarms so am just wandering. =)
Hi Jen,
Personally I’d be looking at either the Autowatch 446RLi Premium or The Cobra AB7928 or AK4138. They all have an attack proof immobiliser case, sirens that can be hidden and remote controls that are protected by a pin number from cloning.
The following are worth reading:
http://vehiclesecurity.co.nz/blog/avs-immobiliser
http://vehiclesecurity.co.nz/blog/autowatch-immobiliser
http://vehiclesecurity.co.nz/blog/cobra-8509-immobiliser
The most important factor is how good the installation is. Don’t assume that because someone is a NZSA approved installer that they are competent.
Hi Julian,
Thanks for your help. Im interested in getting the Autowatch 446RLi Premium now, as it seems like the best one. Are there any installers that you would recommend in Auckland?
Hi Jen,
Give Kishor at Autowatch a call, 0800 4 AUTOWATCH
He is based in Auckland and mobile plus very capable.
http://www.autowatch.co.nz/